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Post by American Deagle on Jan 3, 2017 18:09:32 GMT
I picked up some Tetra Gun Grease, I have seen others online mention if you have some issues with the gun to make sure she runs wet. Well on my XIX 50ae, I didnt have any jams or misfeeds, but there was some hesitation from the slide to make full contact with barrel. Now, it seems after applying the grease to the rails, the slide drives right home and lock up way quicker. Does anyone have any tips on other points on the gun that could use some grease, or is there a downfall to running the grease. Like does it make it gum up or get dirtier and hold on to more gunk.
Any input would be greatly appreciated.
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Post by glenr on Jan 4, 2017 14:29:55 GMT
Even using a little it will pick up more curd, that is just the way it is I use lube-kit grease and oil "lubriplate grease has been well known for many years to be an excellent firearm lubricant. Used by the military, it was issued for use on the M14 rifle (Also known as the M1A in the civilian version). With tighter tolerances on newer firearms the SFL series, specifically SFL-0 became the best grease available with its lighter consistency. - Grant Cunningham a well known professional gunsmith writes "For such things as autoloader slides and rifle bolts, Lubriplate "SFL" NLGI #0 grease is my choice. In testing, it has proven itself superior as a general lubricant. It is white, aluminum-based, low odor, has superb boundary lubricants, and is designed specifically for use in environments that encounter a very wide temperature range (-40F to 300F). It's also resistant to water washout and acid/alkali environments, has great shear resistance, and doesn't oxidize like lithium greases will. As an all-around grease I've found nothing better." he link lubrikit.com/I have used lubiplate grease for a lot of other applications and it has never failed me. I do hose it off when I use the spray gun wash during cleaning and re apply the grease and oils. I also have polished the rails and slide runners with Flitz polish and felt bobs with a Dremel tool. It removes any left over burs and sharp edges. I have done the magazines feed lips and other areas just like my 22 auto pistols for smooth operation.
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Post by techiej on Jan 4, 2017 18:42:00 GMT
I run my slides with a coating of Tetra and also put a dab on the bolt assist and where the bolt rotates on the chamber. Everything else is cleaned/lubed with Ballistol.
It needs a REALLY good cleaning after every range session (usually less than 70 rounds) and with my handloads (240gr SJSP over H110 or Blue Dot) runs very well.
FYI - it is a XIX .44
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Post by American Deagle on Jan 5, 2017 0:14:47 GMT
Even using a little it will pick up more curd, that is just the way it is I use lube-kit grease and oil "lubriplate grease has been well known for many years to be an excellent firearm lubricant. Used by the military, it was issued for use on the M14 rifle (Also known as the M1A in the civilian version). With tighter tolerances on newer firearms the SFL series, specifically SFL-0 became the best grease available with its lighter consistency. - Grant Cunningham a well known professional gunsmith writes "For such things as autoloader slides and rifle bolts, Lubriplate "SFL" NLGI #0 grease is my choice. In testing, it has proven itself superior as a general lubricant. It is white, aluminum-based, low odor, has superb boundary lubricants, and is designed specifically for use in environments that encounter a very wide temperature range (-40F to 300F). It's also resistant to water washout and acid/alkali environments, has great shear resistance, and doesn't oxidize like lithium greases will. As an all-around grease I've found nothing better." he link lubrikit.com/I have used lubiplate grease for a lot of other applications and it has never failed me. I do hose it off when I use the spray gun wash during cleaning and re apply the grease and oils. I also have polished the rails and slide runners with Flitz polish and felt bobs with a Dremel tool. It removes any left over burs and sharp edges. I have done the magazines feed lips and other areas just like my 22 auto pistols for smooth operation. Thanks for the tip on the lubri-kit, I am probably going to order some of it to give it a try. Seems like a pretty good product.
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Post by paj2000 on Jan 6, 2017 3:33:18 GMT
Ive always just used a squirt of ATF fluid on the rails,more oil than grease but, stays better than alot of the oils out there made for guns and it hasnt steered me wrong yet. I have heard of some people mixing it with other products to get more properties out of it, but I just run the straight stuff and havent had any real issues, save from mag issues with my 44.
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Post by American Deagle on Jan 12, 2017 4:20:02 GMT
On a side note. I went out shooting last weekend and had one jam out of probably 25 rounds. It was around 10 degrees F. With a wind chill taking felt temp down to 5 below. The tetra grease started to get way to thick and I believe was responsible for the ftf due to the grease gumming up. Normally I wouldnt be shooting in these conditions but, it has been awhile and I needed to.
GlenR you bring some pretty good merit, to choosing a product that can run in all temp. ranges.
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Post by glenr on Jan 12, 2017 11:14:27 GMT
Thanks, It does help when the grease and oil will keep moving like it is 70 out Now if I could find some grease that works on the ole joints that would be good too!
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Post by ramrod on Feb 19, 2017 18:35:17 GMT
I only use grease for AK 47 bolts and carriers (RIG). Everything else is oil/lube. Don't want to use grease on your gas piston for sure.
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Post by anm2man on Feb 23, 2017 19:15:55 GMT
If you live and shoot your D.E. in a cold climate (Not me I live in Arizona), I would recommend this > Slide Gluide. The Green label is made for colder climates and doesn't get gummy.
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Post by mrblackcat on Feb 23, 2017 22:17:56 GMT
For the last 15 years or so, when I finish cleaning my Desert Eagle, I spray a tiny bit of white lithium grease on a rag and wipe the rails and slide on its contact surfaces. I don't ever spray it on the gun of course, but the spray lithium is super thin, almost like a light oil, but is grease, as it will really stay viable for a year or so. As I said, I do wipe it off for the most part.
MrBlackCat
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